In the ever-evolving landscape of high fashion, few designers have managed to capture the imagination of the industry quite like Daniel Roseberry. As the artistic director of the iconic Maison Schiaparelli, Roseberry has revitalized the brand with his innovative designs, merging surrealism with haute couture in a way that feels both modern and timeless.
To fully appreciate Roseberry’s contributions, it’s essential to understand the rich history of Schiaparelli. Founded by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927, the fashion house quickly became synonymous with avant-garde fashion, thanks in part to Schiaparelli’s collaboration with surrealist artists like Salvador Dalí. Her work was characterized by bold colors, playful designs, and a willingness to push the boundaries of what fashion could be. Schiaparelli introduced the world to iconic pieces such as the lobster dress and the shocking pink hue, forever leaving her mark on the industry.
When Daniel Roseberry took the helm at Schiaparelli in 2019, he was faced with the daunting task of upholding the brand’s legendary status while also making it relevant to today’s fashion landscape. Roseberry, who previously worked under Thom Browne, brought with him a deep understanding of tailoring and a unique vision that seamlessly blends the fantastical with the wearable.
From his very first collection, it was clear that Roseberry was the perfect fit for Schiaparelli. His designs paid homage to the house’s surrealist roots while also introducing new elements that felt distinctly his own. Roseberry’s work is often characterized by exaggerated silhouettes, intricate embroidery, and a bold use of color. His creations are not just clothes but pieces of art that tell a story.
One of the most remarkable aspects of Roseberry’s designs is the way they blur the lines between fashion and art. He has a knack for turning the runway into a living gallery, where each piece is a sculpture in motion. His collections often feature elements of surrealism, such as oversized anatomical details, sculptural accessories, and unexpected materials like gilded brass and leather.
For instance, in his Spring 2022 couture collection, Roseberry showcased a series of designs that incorporated gold anatomical embellishments, reminiscent of Elsa Schiaparelli’s original collaboration with Dalí. The result was a collection that felt both nostalgic and forward-thinking, a true homage to the brand’s legacy while also pushing it into new, uncharted territories.
Under Roseberry’s direction, Schiaparelli has also become a favorite among celebrities, further cementing its place in pop culture. His designs have been worn by the likes of Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, and Bella Hadid, each of whom has helped bring his fantastical creations to life on the red carpet. Lady Gaga’s inauguration outfit, a regal navy coat adorned with a giant gold dove brooch, was a standout moment that showcased Roseberry’s ability to create pieces that are both politically and artistically significant.
As Daniel Roseberry continues to steer the ship at Schiaparelli, the fashion world eagerly anticipates what he will do next. His ability to merge the surreal with the wearable has not only revitalized the brand but has also set a new standard for what haute couture can be. With each collection, Roseberry proves that fashion is not just about clothing; it’s about storytelling, art, and the ability to inspire.
In a world where trends come and go, Daniel Roseberry’s work at Schiaparelli stands as a testament to the enduring power of creativity. His designs are a reminder that fashion, at its best, is a form of art that transcends time, a perfect reflection of the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli herself.
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Photos courtesy of Schiaparelli